Feeding Your Labrador Retriever

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Feeding Your Labrador Retriever: Part 2

Many dog owners feed their pet semi-moist foods because they are easier to prepare than canned food and usually more delectable than regular dry food. Semi-moist foods are usually packaged in easy-open pouches or as "hamburger patties." The semi-moist foods contain much less water than canned foods, but they are expensive and loaded with sugar, preservatives, and additives. These materials can sometimes produce allergic reactions that commonly result in skin biting or scratching by the sensitive dog. Though there are some semi-moist foods that are more nutritious than others, it is best to limit their intake to no more than ผ of the dog's diet, with the remaining พ being a quality dry food.

The dry-food category spans a large spectrum of quality, mostly commercial and professional. Most of the popular brands that are seen in supermarkets fall into the first category. The main problem with these is the amount the dog needs to consume daily in order to attain proper nutrition. Often, it is just too much, and leads to excessive elimination.

Check the recommended feeding amounts on the bag and apply it to your dog's weight. If the suggested amount turns out to be more than your dog can easily eat in one meal, choose another brand. A second drawback of this type of dry food is that the mixture of ingredients often varies from batch to batch, due to fluctuations in which crop such as soy, wheat, oats, etc. is available at what time. Therefore, the nutritional value may differ somewhat from bag to bag.

The "professional" meat-meal blends offer some improvement. These are the high-quality dry foods that are sold primarily in pet shops, specialty stores, and online catalogs. They offer a nutritious, balanced diet in an easily digestible form. The makers retain a standard blending procedure from batch to batch to insure a uniform product. The suggested feeding amounts are adequate to fill a dog up without overfeeding him. Although such products may cost a little more than the regular dry food, in the long run they are no more expensive than brands that require more to be eaten. A quality meat-meal-based dry food has also been shown to aid in the housebreaking process because this type of mixture usually contains bran or fiber in amounts that help to produce firmer stools.

Feeding Your Labrador Retriever

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Feeding Your Labrador Retriever: Part 1

Selecting the right food for your Labrador Retriever should not be a random choice, as no other decision will have a greater impact on the overall well-being of your dog. What the dog eats affects his nutrition, and nutrition directly relates to overall health and longevity. A dog's diet should be high in protein, with an ample supply of carbohydrates, fat, vitamins, and minerals. These requirements are easily met by selecting nutritionally complete products.

Most single-pet households purchase their dog's food from the supermarket. Often, pet owners are swayed into trying certain brands by price, packaging, and advertising. But the most popular brands may not be the best buys for your dog.

There are three main types of dog food: canned, semi-moist, and dry; with the occasional table scraps. Each of these used as the sole diet presents problems. A diet consisting exclusively of canned and semi-moist foods can wreak havoc with a dog's digestive system, teeth, and gums.

Some dry foods must be taken in massive amounts to obtain all of the nutrients that are essential. And table scraps can throw a well-balanced diet right out of order. However, in spite of these pitfalls, there is no reason to despair. With a little research such as reading the labels and comparing and perhaps some trial and error, you should be able to work out the proper balanced diet for your Lab.

Canned dog food should never be served as the only food. First of all, it is very high in water content (approximately 75%) and you end up paying hefty prices for little real substance. The meat used in canned food is certainly not from choice cuts, either, so do not let evasive television commercials fool you into thinking canned food is optimal. In addition, the additives that are commonly used in canned foods, such as coloring and preservatives, are basically non digestible by the dog and can have a diuretic effect. Add this to the high water content and you will understand why a dog eating primarily canned food will have an increased need for urination and potential housebreaking problems.

However, there are some canned foods that are better than others, notably the ones designed for the different stages of a dog's life. But even these should make up no more than ผ of the dog's daily intake and should be used in conjunction with a quality meat/meal-based dry food.

Caring For Your Labrador's Face & Ears

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Caring For Your Labrador's Face & Ears

After a day of hunting or a run in overgrown terrain, a Labrador retriever's eyes and ears should be inspected for signs of embedded objects or scratches. The ear can be easily inspected with the aid of a small flashlight to help you see the upper interior. It is quite easy for burrs to become entangled in or around the ear canal, or for tiny seeds to work their way under the eyelids and irritate the eye. The dog will react to such irritants by pawing at the spot, often causing more damage by scraping the surface raw and inviting infection. If the dog is continuously rubbing these areas and no cut or embedded object is visible, there may be an abrasion that will require a salve to remove the sting and aid in healing.

Ear troubles are also indicated when a dog constantly shakes its head, rubs its head against the ground, produces an excessive amount of visible ear wax, or if there is a foul odor from the ear's interior. If the dog reacts violently to an inspection of the ear or if there is redness or swelling, it probably is suffering from an inflammation that must be treated topically by your veterinarian (antibiotics are sometimes required also). Such inflammations can be the result of a variety of causes, such as parasitic mites or bacterial infections, so an accurate diagnosis is imperative.

You can help to alleviate the normal buildup of wax and dirt in the ear by routinely swabbing the easily accessible areas of the ear with a cotton ball wet with a little warm water. Ointments made specifically for cleaning the outer ear can be purchased from pet shops, grooming parlors, or your veterinarian if cleanliness is a continual problem. Avoid oily compounds, as they may leave a sticky residue that will retain dirt. Do not probe into the ear canal during cleaning, as this can be very damaging and extremely painful for the dog. Clean only the exposed area. If you suspect that the ear is becoming clogged, bring the dog to the veterinarian for a more thorough cleaning. You should ask for instructions on how to perform this procedure at home if the problem is chronic.

To remove small amounts of discharge that may collect around the corners of the eye, carefully dab it away with a damp, clean, lint-free cloth. If the dog continues to blink excessively or if the eye is red, consult your veterinarian. Minor irritations can quickly become serious, so special attention must be paid to any tearing or discharge from these sensitive areas.