Training The Intelligent Labrador's Retriever

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Training The Intelligent Labrador's Retriever

Labrador retriever owners are blessed with a breed that loves to learn. All training must enforce the idea that learning not only is fun but it will bring positive responses from the owner. Learning is not a game, but it need not be unpleasant either.

Training your Labrador retriever to be a mannerly adult is begun at birth, by its mother. Once the puppy arrives at the new owner's home, it has already been given some basic instructions on behavior - so don't be fooled into thinking it is too young to behave. A puppy is, of course, too young to teach formal commands, but early lessons in manners and on who is in charge can begin at once.

The Labrador retriever is a highly intelligent animal and a capable learner. It embodies many natural instincts and abilities that make this breed distinct among others of similar heritage. But at the core, a Labrador retriever is a dog - originally a pack animal. From earliest times, pack animals have exhibited a pattern of behavior that affects the process of training:

A pack animal assumes it is the boss until proved otherwise (the leader-of-the-pack syndrome). At birth, the dam assumes the leadership position and keeps her young in line. As the puppies begin to assert their independence, she will remind them of their place through low growls, a swat of the paw, or an occasional shake of the neck. Little else is necessary. She admonishes her young swiftly, fairly, consistently, and unemotionally, and they respect her position as leader. The wise owner follows the dam's example.

Consistency is vital. Should the dog misbehave, respond accordingly and appropriately. Do not let his "cute little antics" go uncorrected as this will undermine your leadership. Respond firmly but fairly, letting him know what is expected of him and what will not be tolerated. Brute force is not required and is counterproductive. When a dog is testing your authority, correct it in a manner a dog will understand - a firm vocal reprimand, a stem look, a shake of the neck. Little more should be necessary to make your displeasure clear if you are carrying out the corrections authoritatively. Be sure never to whine, nag, plead, or preach at the dog, as these are clearly not the actions of a leader and the dog will not feel compelled to obey.

The Versatile Dog

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The Versatile Dog

The Labrador Retriever is one of the most wonderful and amazing breeds ever developed. A Labrador puppy is a bouncy bundle of black, yellow or chocolate fun and games. A Labrador adult is one of many things. He is an excellent guide dog for those who are sightless or visually impaired: The Labrador Retriever is the breed used most often as guide dogs for the blind. Because they love to fetch for their masters, Labs are very popular as service dogs for those who are wheelchair bound.

If you work with detector dogs, the Labrador is probably your breed of choice because of his keen nose. He is one of the best breed for detecting drugs, explosives and arson. If hunting is your sport, you know that Labs are the most popular hunting companions of all the retrieving breeds. Eager-to-please, Labs also make great Therapy dogs, bringing joy to people confined to hospitals and nursing homes.

If you decide to become involved with showing for conformation or competing in obedience or field trials, once again, Labs are very popular for all three competitions. When it is time for your family to choose a pet, you probably cannot go wrong with a Labrador Retriever, especially if you are an active family on the go and want a dog who can keep up with your active lifestyle. Because of their happy-go-lucky attitude, Labs are great with children and adults. A Lab is never happier than when he is with his family. They are very funny characters who loves to entertain us endlessly.

What constitutes a "good" Labrador is outlined in the breed's official American Kennel Club (AKC) standard. Every breed has a standard that is a comprehensive list of the specific characteristics that make one breed distinct from another. You can obtain a copy of any breed's standard from the AKC. After reading a breed's standard, you should be able to visualize a well-balanced specimen of that breed. A picture, along with the narrative of a dog considered to be a very good specimen, is usually included. There really is no perfect dog. Breeders are always striving to breed dogs that come as close to the standard as possible, but when you are dealing with living creatures, the variables are numerous.

The Labrador Retriever: An Early History

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The Labrador Retriever: An Early History

The exact beginnings of the Labrador retriever cannot be pinpointed. Stories of coarse, thickly coated, black water dogs trained to work with fishermen date back to the sixteenth century, cited by sailors from Devon, England, who routinely saw them when trading with the fishermen of Newfoundland (then a British colony). Through the centuries more refined specimens emerged. These water dogs were known as Newfoundlands or Labrador Newfoundlands - titles that applied to several breeds of dogs found there. The dogs ranged from a large, heavy-coated variety known as the Large Newfoundland (progenitor of today's Newfoundland) to a smaller, rough-coated variety called the Lesser Newfoundland or St. John's Dogs. It is theorized that the modern-day Labrador retriever descends from the St. John's Dog, which was medium-sized, docile, easily managed, and possessed a very sensitive nose.

A number of breeds have been mentioned as early crosses that helped to set the type for the Labrador retriever. A likely pairing would be the St. John's with local black retrieving setters (then called water dogges). The resulting dogs likely featured a heavy, wavy coat. To evolve the hard, short coat that repelled the icy waters, crossings with black pointers or flat-coated retrievers may have taken place.

The Labrador retriever may have called Newfoundland its homeland, but the breed was developed and refined in England. The name Labrador was finally settled on for the breed after its integration into the English sporting kennels in the 1800s. At this point basic breed structure and character were set and the breeding was kept pure. The continuous trade between England and Newfoundland meant an ample supply of Labradors could be imported for the earliest fanciers, who quickly recognized these dogs' superior talents for hunting and began breeding them in earnest for strictly private use. The breed was unknown as a companion dog for many generations, as Labradors were bred exclusively for work.

The earliest known breeders of Labradors were wealthy sportsmen who maintained large kennels of shooting dogs. The Fifth Duke of Buccleugh, the Tenth Earl of Home, and Lord John Scott were all very active in the 1840s. The most influential of the early breeders was the Third Earl of Malmesbury, who judiciously imported good specimens from the Newfoundland fishermen and are credited with having set the standard for quality Labrador retrievers. Many contemporary dogs can trace their pedigree to Malmesbury dogs, especially
his renowned Tramp.

By the 1880s, word of this excellent worker had spread beyond the confines of the aristocracy's private kennels to sportsmen throughout England. However, two setbacks occurred that threatened the breed's survival. In England, the Quarantine Act initiated a six-month quarantine for all imported livestock. In Newfoundland, the Sheep Protection Act of 1885 gave districts the right to prohibit dogs and to charge hefty fees for dog licensing, which resulted in many owners destroying all but those dogs needed to carry out their livelihood. Both actions severely limited the flow of new Labrador retrievers to England. Breeders were forced to work with the available stock and perfect the breed through careful selection. The conscientious efforts of these early breeders turned a potentially disastrous situation into a
strengthening of the overall quality of the average Labrador retriever.

The Best Search-And-Rescue Dog

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The Best Search-And-Rescue Dog

Labrador Retrievers are often found working in airports, on street patrol, and in other public locations, as it has been found that they have the concentration capacity and staying power to maintain scent work in large, populated areas. Labradors are becoming more popular in this job and have been known for their ability to work among civilians without creating anxiety which is often known to occur when the more traditional police dogs such as German Shepherds and Dobermans are used.

Following in the path of the Saint Bernard, Labrador Retrievers have become a vital part of rescue teams. The Labrador's superior scenting ability has made him one of the top Disaster Dogs. Because of their keen sense of smell, Labradors are being trained to find people buried by the debris of earthquakes or similar disasters. The work is arduous and requires great concentration in dangerous surroundings; The dog must go to his task in the rubble of collapsed buildings, surrounded by the clamor of emergency vehicles, and often fire.

In these crisis situations, the air is usually choked with dust, smoke, and gas escaping from broken gas lines. Labradors are able to focus on the human scent and locate trapped victims. Upon making a find, the Disaster Dog is trained to indicate this to his handler by barking and scratching gently at the spot. The intensity of the bark generally indicates whether the victim is dead or alive. The handler calls in another team to verify and then notifies the rescue officials, who do the removal.

Labrador Retrievers work efficiently, in a calm, gentle manner, rather than the aggressive, almost attacking method exhibited by breeds that have been tried but eliminated from the program. Each Disaster Dog has undergone extensive training and must be fully reliable to work individually off-lead and be fully responsive to his handler. Despite his desire to continue searching, a Disaster Dog must withdraw immediately upon command, as the handler may spot a danger that the dog is unaware of.

The Disaster Dog program is run by unpaid volunteers who teach the dog to master all obedience skills as well special techniques. A Disaster Dog must be trained to climb over difficult obstacles, such as ladders, thin walk ways, rocks, and downed trees, and avoid broken glass, collapsing surface and other life-threatening situations. He must also be able to climb on through small windows or crevices where people may be trapped. This type of work requires a superlative dog that is dedicated to saving lives, putting his own on the line without fear.

Teaching Your Labrador To Retrieve

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Teaching Your Labrador To Retrieve

Mutual trust and understanding are required between the hunter and his dog before a satisfactory retrieving companion is developed. The intelligent Labrador Retriever, brought up as a house pet with the love and understanding of the person who is to take him hunting, requires a minimum of training in order to accomplish the job. Much of this training can be done in the house and a few minutes a day is enough. Such things as blind retrieves and hand signals can become a game in the house with the dog learning to trust his nose as one of the important by-products.

Introduction to feathers can be accomplished by tying feathers on a dummy or using a pigeon or chicken wing with the feathers intact. Remember that a Labrador should hand you the object retrieved and not drop it on the ground as is allowed with other breeds. This is also one of the requirements for a working certificate for a show dog. One important thing should not be overlooked and that is allowing persons to throw just anything for a dog and not requiring the dog to bring it back and give it to them. Let toys be toys, but certain definite other things should be reserved for training.

If a dog has a tendency to go off with the object you are training with outdoors, it is a good idea to reduce the available working space so that evading you is minimized. In such circumstances, moving away from the dog may induce following and the training object may be retrieved as the dog passes. His game of keep-away is thus converted to delivering the object for reward of the praise bestowed upon surrender of the object.

For outside work, training involves getting your dog to go far out, which is not possible in the house. Introducing him to gunfire must also be done outdoors. You can find a training aid called a dummy thrower that is very useful, but test it without your dog the first time as the dummy goes a long way.

For dog owners wishing to use a whistle for signals, one of the product that you can get is the Acme Thunderer. With this type of whistle, one can almost talk as it is possible to make various other sounds. One blast is commonly used for a dog to sit wherever he is, and three blasts to summon the dog to come towards or all the way back to you. The single blast is used also to signal for the dog to pay attention when you plan to use hand signals.

Taking Care Of Your Labrador's Feet & Paws

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Taking Care Of Your Labrador's Feet & Paws

A Labrador retriever's feet are susceptible to various injuries if it spends much time outdoors. The pads of the feet should be inspected after every vigorous run in thick brush for cuts, splinters, burrs, or embedded stones. For minor problems, a cleaning, using sterilized tweezers to remove any objects, and a mild antiseptic should be all that is needed. The dog should not be permitted any hard running until the cut is healed. Undiscovered minor irritations can quickly become infected and painful, causing the dog to favor the leg and limp. A dog that develops a sudden limp may have been stung by an insect. In such a case, an ice compress will usually reduce or prevent swelling and the pain should quickly pass. (Be alert to any difficulty in breathing, as an allergic reaction to stings may also produce dangerous side effects.) If there is no evidence of a cut and the dog continues to favor the leg, consult a veterinarian as there may be an injury to the bones or muscles of the foot, or something may be embedded within the footpad that will need an experienced hand to remove.

Because many adult dogs dislike having their feet touched or inspected, begin this as a daily routine while the dog is young. Dogs that receive ample exercise outside the house will seldom need to have their nails trimmed, as moving about on rough surfaces should be enough to keep the nails quite short. Dogs that are more sedentary will need their nails attended to. If allowed to continue growing, the nails will impede the normal placement of the foot and affect the dog's gait.

Specially designed nail clippers for medium-sized dogs such as Labrador retrievers can be purchased at most pet shops or grooming parlors. The process is quick and painless, if done properly. If you are inexperienced with this, have your veterinarian show you this simple procedure at the dog's regular checkup. From then on this can be performed at home. Be sure to cut only the outer shell of the nail, as cutting too close to the quick will cause bleeding. Once the nail is the proper length, smooth the surface with a few touches of an emery board. Should bleeding occur from the cutting, apply pressure to the area by holding a cotton swab over the nail. Once the bleeding stops, dab the nail with a mild antiseptic.

In the wintertime, if you live in the colder areas, check your dog's feet after it walks on snow-covered or shoveled sidewalks. The chemicals that are commonly applied to melt snow on walkways and roads can be caustic to your dog's skin and feet and must be removed quickly by a thorough washing with warm, soapy water.

Follow this by applying a generous amount of petroleum jelly to the footpads to soothe any discomfort. If the use of such snow-melting chemicals is common in your area, ask your veterinarian to recommend a cream that you can apply to protect the footpads before damage occurs. If this salt is allowed to remain, the pads can be chemically burned. In response to the pain the dog may try to wash the chemicals off by licking, which complicates the problem further. If ingested in large enough doses, such materials can injure the digestive tract and other organs. The same applies to any antifreeze that may leak onto the streets. Not only is this liquid deadly, but it also actually attracts dogs by its pleasant smell and taste. Beware of letting your dog walk on or lick any liquids in the streets.

Protecting Your Labrador Retriever From Ticks & Fleas

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Protecting Your Labrador Retriever From Ticks & Fleas

All dogs that frequent the outdoors will sooner or later come down with a case of flea infestation. In the summer, fleas are everywhere your Labrador wants to go, so be prepared to do battle against their presence on the dog and in your house. While fleas seem to like all dogs, they also go for certain humans.

Fleas are nasty insects, they bite the host, itch like crazy, suck blood, and often pass on tapeworms. It takes a good effort to rid them from where they hide. Begin by purchasing a flea spray or powder from your veterinarian, pet shop, or grooming parlor. The dog's coat must be thoroughly doused with the repellent for it to work effectively, but be careful to apply it safely. Start at the head and work down the body, applying it against the grain of the coat. Take great care to protect and cover the dog's eyes, nose, and mouth, as such products can be very irritating to sensitive tissue. I would recommend two people doing the head: one to protect; one to slowly, carefully apply the anti-flea agent.

Anything frequently used by the dog (such as a crate or a bed) should also be sprayed to kill the breeding colonies not on the dog. If the fleas should work their way into the carpeting and furniture, apply a heavy-duty insect bomb (available in hardware stores) to the entire house and evacuate the area for several hours. There are also commercial products (sprays, powders, or liquids) that you can apply to your rug after the bombing to keep any embedded eggs from hatching and re-infesting the area.

To help deter further infestations, place a flea collar on the dog when outside (you can remove it inside, if you like). Should the collar ever get wet, immediately remove it as it can be very irritating to the dog's skin. Should normal efforts fail to rid your dog of fleas, a flea dip should do the job. You can either take the dog to a professional groomer or carefully bathe the dog at home following the directions on the product.

Ticks are also common problems for Labradors, especially black ones whose dark coats mask their presence. Certain species are also the vectors of Lyme disease, which affects humans as well as other mammals. Ticks gnaw through the dog's skin and implant themselves in order to suck the dog's blood. They must be carefully removed, not simply ripped off, because improper removal can cause the head to be torn from the tick's body and remain embedded in the dog's skin, where it may become infected or abscessed. To remove the tick, use tweezers or your thumb and first finger to grasp it as close to the skin as possible. Exert a firm but gentle constant upward pressure (don't twist, as this can tear the body). Some people prefer to apply tick dip to the site prior to removal. The dip suffocates the ticks and make the task easier. This is not necessary if care is taken to remove the tick properly. A thick, red spot may remain for several days where the tick was removed. Never burn a tick off with a match or cigarette. This is simply dangerous and unnecessary.