Training The Intelligent Labrador's Retriever

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Training The Intelligent Labrador's Retriever

Labrador retriever owners are blessed with a breed that loves to learn. All training must enforce the idea that learning not only is fun but it will bring positive responses from the owner. Learning is not a game, but it need not be unpleasant either.

Training your Labrador retriever to be a mannerly adult is begun at birth, by its mother. Once the puppy arrives at the new owner's home, it has already been given some basic instructions on behavior - so don't be fooled into thinking it is too young to behave. A puppy is, of course, too young to teach formal commands, but early lessons in manners and on who is in charge can begin at once.

The Labrador retriever is a highly intelligent animal and a capable learner. It embodies many natural instincts and abilities that make this breed distinct among others of similar heritage. But at the core, a Labrador retriever is a dog - originally a pack animal. From earliest times, pack animals have exhibited a pattern of behavior that affects the process of training:

A pack animal assumes it is the boss until proved otherwise (the leader-of-the-pack syndrome). At birth, the dam assumes the leadership position and keeps her young in line. As the puppies begin to assert their independence, she will remind them of their place through low growls, a swat of the paw, or an occasional shake of the neck. Little else is necessary. She admonishes her young swiftly, fairly, consistently, and unemotionally, and they respect her position as leader. The wise owner follows the dam's example.

Consistency is vital. Should the dog misbehave, respond accordingly and appropriately. Do not let his "cute little antics" go uncorrected as this will undermine your leadership. Respond firmly but fairly, letting him know what is expected of him and what will not be tolerated. Brute force is not required and is counterproductive. When a dog is testing your authority, correct it in a manner a dog will understand - a firm vocal reprimand, a stem look, a shake of the neck. Little more should be necessary to make your displeasure clear if you are carrying out the corrections authoritatively. Be sure never to whine, nag, plead, or preach at the dog, as these are clearly not the actions of a leader and the dog will not feel compelled to obey.

The Versatile Dog

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The Versatile Dog

The Labrador Retriever is one of the most wonderful and amazing breeds ever developed. A Labrador puppy is a bouncy bundle of black, yellow or chocolate fun and games. A Labrador adult is one of many things. He is an excellent guide dog for those who are sightless or visually impaired: The Labrador Retriever is the breed used most often as guide dogs for the blind. Because they love to fetch for their masters, Labs are very popular as service dogs for those who are wheelchair bound.

If you work with detector dogs, the Labrador is probably your breed of choice because of his keen nose. He is one of the best breed for detecting drugs, explosives and arson. If hunting is your sport, you know that Labs are the most popular hunting companions of all the retrieving breeds. Eager-to-please, Labs also make great Therapy dogs, bringing joy to people confined to hospitals and nursing homes.

If you decide to become involved with showing for conformation or competing in obedience or field trials, once again, Labs are very popular for all three competitions. When it is time for your family to choose a pet, you probably cannot go wrong with a Labrador Retriever, especially if you are an active family on the go and want a dog who can keep up with your active lifestyle. Because of their happy-go-lucky attitude, Labs are great with children and adults. A Lab is never happier than when he is with his family. They are very funny characters who loves to entertain us endlessly.

What constitutes a "good" Labrador is outlined in the breed's official American Kennel Club (AKC) standard. Every breed has a standard that is a comprehensive list of the specific characteristics that make one breed distinct from another. You can obtain a copy of any breed's standard from the AKC. After reading a breed's standard, you should be able to visualize a well-balanced specimen of that breed. A picture, along with the narrative of a dog considered to be a very good specimen, is usually included. There really is no perfect dog. Breeders are always striving to breed dogs that come as close to the standard as possible, but when you are dealing with living creatures, the variables are numerous.

The Labrador Retriever: An Early History

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The Labrador Retriever: An Early History

The exact beginnings of the Labrador retriever cannot be pinpointed. Stories of coarse, thickly coated, black water dogs trained to work with fishermen date back to the sixteenth century, cited by sailors from Devon, England, who routinely saw them when trading with the fishermen of Newfoundland (then a British colony). Through the centuries more refined specimens emerged. These water dogs were known as Newfoundlands or Labrador Newfoundlands - titles that applied to several breeds of dogs found there. The dogs ranged from a large, heavy-coated variety known as the Large Newfoundland (progenitor of today's Newfoundland) to a smaller, rough-coated variety called the Lesser Newfoundland or St. John's Dogs. It is theorized that the modern-day Labrador retriever descends from the St. John's Dog, which was medium-sized, docile, easily managed, and possessed a very sensitive nose.

A number of breeds have been mentioned as early crosses that helped to set the type for the Labrador retriever. A likely pairing would be the St. John's with local black retrieving setters (then called water dogges). The resulting dogs likely featured a heavy, wavy coat. To evolve the hard, short coat that repelled the icy waters, crossings with black pointers or flat-coated retrievers may have taken place.

The Labrador retriever may have called Newfoundland its homeland, but the breed was developed and refined in England. The name Labrador was finally settled on for the breed after its integration into the English sporting kennels in the 1800s. At this point basic breed structure and character were set and the breeding was kept pure. The continuous trade between England and Newfoundland meant an ample supply of Labradors could be imported for the earliest fanciers, who quickly recognized these dogs' superior talents for hunting and began breeding them in earnest for strictly private use. The breed was unknown as a companion dog for many generations, as Labradors were bred exclusively for work.

The earliest known breeders of Labradors were wealthy sportsmen who maintained large kennels of shooting dogs. The Fifth Duke of Buccleugh, the Tenth Earl of Home, and Lord John Scott were all very active in the 1840s. The most influential of the early breeders was the Third Earl of Malmesbury, who judiciously imported good specimens from the Newfoundland fishermen and are credited with having set the standard for quality Labrador retrievers. Many contemporary dogs can trace their pedigree to Malmesbury dogs, especially
his renowned Tramp.

By the 1880s, word of this excellent worker had spread beyond the confines of the aristocracy's private kennels to sportsmen throughout England. However, two setbacks occurred that threatened the breed's survival. In England, the Quarantine Act initiated a six-month quarantine for all imported livestock. In Newfoundland, the Sheep Protection Act of 1885 gave districts the right to prohibit dogs and to charge hefty fees for dog licensing, which resulted in many owners destroying all but those dogs needed to carry out their livelihood. Both actions severely limited the flow of new Labrador retrievers to England. Breeders were forced to work with the available stock and perfect the breed through careful selection. The conscientious efforts of these early breeders turned a potentially disastrous situation into a
strengthening of the overall quality of the average Labrador retriever.

The Best Search-And-Rescue Dog

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The Best Search-And-Rescue Dog

Labrador Retrievers are often found working in airports, on street patrol, and in other public locations, as it has been found that they have the concentration capacity and staying power to maintain scent work in large, populated areas. Labradors are becoming more popular in this job and have been known for their ability to work among civilians without creating anxiety which is often known to occur when the more traditional police dogs such as German Shepherds and Dobermans are used.

Following in the path of the Saint Bernard, Labrador Retrievers have become a vital part of rescue teams. The Labrador's superior scenting ability has made him one of the top Disaster Dogs. Because of their keen sense of smell, Labradors are being trained to find people buried by the debris of earthquakes or similar disasters. The work is arduous and requires great concentration in dangerous surroundings; The dog must go to his task in the rubble of collapsed buildings, surrounded by the clamor of emergency vehicles, and often fire.

In these crisis situations, the air is usually choked with dust, smoke, and gas escaping from broken gas lines. Labradors are able to focus on the human scent and locate trapped victims. Upon making a find, the Disaster Dog is trained to indicate this to his handler by barking and scratching gently at the spot. The intensity of the bark generally indicates whether the victim is dead or alive. The handler calls in another team to verify and then notifies the rescue officials, who do the removal.

Labrador Retrievers work efficiently, in a calm, gentle manner, rather than the aggressive, almost attacking method exhibited by breeds that have been tried but eliminated from the program. Each Disaster Dog has undergone extensive training and must be fully reliable to work individually off-lead and be fully responsive to his handler. Despite his desire to continue searching, a Disaster Dog must withdraw immediately upon command, as the handler may spot a danger that the dog is unaware of.

The Disaster Dog program is run by unpaid volunteers who teach the dog to master all obedience skills as well special techniques. A Disaster Dog must be trained to climb over difficult obstacles, such as ladders, thin walk ways, rocks, and downed trees, and avoid broken glass, collapsing surface and other life-threatening situations. He must also be able to climb on through small windows or crevices where people may be trapped. This type of work requires a superlative dog that is dedicated to saving lives, putting his own on the line without fear.

Teaching Your Labrador To Retrieve

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Teaching Your Labrador To Retrieve

Mutual trust and understanding are required between the hunter and his dog before a satisfactory retrieving companion is developed. The intelligent Labrador Retriever, brought up as a house pet with the love and understanding of the person who is to take him hunting, requires a minimum of training in order to accomplish the job. Much of this training can be done in the house and a few minutes a day is enough. Such things as blind retrieves and hand signals can become a game in the house with the dog learning to trust his nose as one of the important by-products.

Introduction to feathers can be accomplished by tying feathers on a dummy or using a pigeon or chicken wing with the feathers intact. Remember that a Labrador should hand you the object retrieved and not drop it on the ground as is allowed with other breeds. This is also one of the requirements for a working certificate for a show dog. One important thing should not be overlooked and that is allowing persons to throw just anything for a dog and not requiring the dog to bring it back and give it to them. Let toys be toys, but certain definite other things should be reserved for training.

If a dog has a tendency to go off with the object you are training with outdoors, it is a good idea to reduce the available working space so that evading you is minimized. In such circumstances, moving away from the dog may induce following and the training object may be retrieved as the dog passes. His game of keep-away is thus converted to delivering the object for reward of the praise bestowed upon surrender of the object.

For outside work, training involves getting your dog to go far out, which is not possible in the house. Introducing him to gunfire must also be done outdoors. You can find a training aid called a dummy thrower that is very useful, but test it without your dog the first time as the dummy goes a long way.

For dog owners wishing to use a whistle for signals, one of the product that you can get is the Acme Thunderer. With this type of whistle, one can almost talk as it is possible to make various other sounds. One blast is commonly used for a dog to sit wherever he is, and three blasts to summon the dog to come towards or all the way back to you. The single blast is used also to signal for the dog to pay attention when you plan to use hand signals.

Taking Care Of Your Labrador's Feet & Paws

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Taking Care Of Your Labrador's Feet & Paws

A Labrador retriever's feet are susceptible to various injuries if it spends much time outdoors. The pads of the feet should be inspected after every vigorous run in thick brush for cuts, splinters, burrs, or embedded stones. For minor problems, a cleaning, using sterilized tweezers to remove any objects, and a mild antiseptic should be all that is needed. The dog should not be permitted any hard running until the cut is healed. Undiscovered minor irritations can quickly become infected and painful, causing the dog to favor the leg and limp. A dog that develops a sudden limp may have been stung by an insect. In such a case, an ice compress will usually reduce or prevent swelling and the pain should quickly pass. (Be alert to any difficulty in breathing, as an allergic reaction to stings may also produce dangerous side effects.) If there is no evidence of a cut and the dog continues to favor the leg, consult a veterinarian as there may be an injury to the bones or muscles of the foot, or something may be embedded within the footpad that will need an experienced hand to remove.

Because many adult dogs dislike having their feet touched or inspected, begin this as a daily routine while the dog is young. Dogs that receive ample exercise outside the house will seldom need to have their nails trimmed, as moving about on rough surfaces should be enough to keep the nails quite short. Dogs that are more sedentary will need their nails attended to. If allowed to continue growing, the nails will impede the normal placement of the foot and affect the dog's gait.

Specially designed nail clippers for medium-sized dogs such as Labrador retrievers can be purchased at most pet shops or grooming parlors. The process is quick and painless, if done properly. If you are inexperienced with this, have your veterinarian show you this simple procedure at the dog's regular checkup. From then on this can be performed at home. Be sure to cut only the outer shell of the nail, as cutting too close to the quick will cause bleeding. Once the nail is the proper length, smooth the surface with a few touches of an emery board. Should bleeding occur from the cutting, apply pressure to the area by holding a cotton swab over the nail. Once the bleeding stops, dab the nail with a mild antiseptic.

In the wintertime, if you live in the colder areas, check your dog's feet after it walks on snow-covered or shoveled sidewalks. The chemicals that are commonly applied to melt snow on walkways and roads can be caustic to your dog's skin and feet and must be removed quickly by a thorough washing with warm, soapy water.

Follow this by applying a generous amount of petroleum jelly to the footpads to soothe any discomfort. If the use of such snow-melting chemicals is common in your area, ask your veterinarian to recommend a cream that you can apply to protect the footpads before damage occurs. If this salt is allowed to remain, the pads can be chemically burned. In response to the pain the dog may try to wash the chemicals off by licking, which complicates the problem further. If ingested in large enough doses, such materials can injure the digestive tract and other organs. The same applies to any antifreeze that may leak onto the streets. Not only is this liquid deadly, but it also actually attracts dogs by its pleasant smell and taste. Beware of letting your dog walk on or lick any liquids in the streets.

Protecting Your Labrador Retriever From Ticks & Fleas

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Protecting Your Labrador Retriever From Ticks & Fleas

All dogs that frequent the outdoors will sooner or later come down with a case of flea infestation. In the summer, fleas are everywhere your Labrador wants to go, so be prepared to do battle against their presence on the dog and in your house. While fleas seem to like all dogs, they also go for certain humans.

Fleas are nasty insects, they bite the host, itch like crazy, suck blood, and often pass on tapeworms. It takes a good effort to rid them from where they hide. Begin by purchasing a flea spray or powder from your veterinarian, pet shop, or grooming parlor. The dog's coat must be thoroughly doused with the repellent for it to work effectively, but be careful to apply it safely. Start at the head and work down the body, applying it against the grain of the coat. Take great care to protect and cover the dog's eyes, nose, and mouth, as such products can be very irritating to sensitive tissue. I would recommend two people doing the head: one to protect; one to slowly, carefully apply the anti-flea agent.

Anything frequently used by the dog (such as a crate or a bed) should also be sprayed to kill the breeding colonies not on the dog. If the fleas should work their way into the carpeting and furniture, apply a heavy-duty insect bomb (available in hardware stores) to the entire house and evacuate the area for several hours. There are also commercial products (sprays, powders, or liquids) that you can apply to your rug after the bombing to keep any embedded eggs from hatching and re-infesting the area.

To help deter further infestations, place a flea collar on the dog when outside (you can remove it inside, if you like). Should the collar ever get wet, immediately remove it as it can be very irritating to the dog's skin. Should normal efforts fail to rid your dog of fleas, a flea dip should do the job. You can either take the dog to a professional groomer or carefully bathe the dog at home following the directions on the product.

Ticks are also common problems for Labradors, especially black ones whose dark coats mask their presence. Certain species are also the vectors of Lyme disease, which affects humans as well as other mammals. Ticks gnaw through the dog's skin and implant themselves in order to suck the dog's blood. They must be carefully removed, not simply ripped off, because improper removal can cause the head to be torn from the tick's body and remain embedded in the dog's skin, where it may become infected or abscessed. To remove the tick, use tweezers or your thumb and first finger to grasp it as close to the skin as possible. Exert a firm but gentle constant upward pressure (don't twist, as this can tear the body). Some people prefer to apply tick dip to the site prior to removal. The dip suffocates the ticks and make the task easier. This is not necessary if care is taken to remove the tick properly. A thick, red spot may remain for several days where the tick was removed. Never burn a tick off with a match or cigarette. This is simply dangerous and unnecessary.

Making Life Easier For The Handicapped

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Making Life Easier For The Handicapped

Having proved their love for humans and their desire to serve, Labradors are now being trained throughout the world to assist many types of handicapped owners in the chores of everyday life. You have probably seen a handicapped man or woman being guided by a loving and well-trained Labrador Retriever at some time. With some assistance, many people who would formerly have been confined in their activities are now entering the mainstream of society. Their extensively trained Labradors are their vehicles to freedom.

Because Labradors have extraordinary sense of perceptions, they are one of the breeds being widely used as Hearing Ear Dogs. After completing a rigorous four- to six-month obedience and auditory awareness program, they are specifically trained to the individual needs of their hearing-impaired or deaf owners. Their primary tasks are to alert the owner to the noises that most people take for granted such as the doorbell or telephone, the alarm clock, a baby crying, smoke alarms, oncoming traffic, or emergency sirens. The Hearing Ear Dog makes his owner aware of any important sound by running between the sound and the owner until attention is paid, gently nudging an owner who is asleep, or pulling the owner from harm's way.

Aid Dogs are trained to assist physically disabled people with tasks requiring dexterity or mobility. This variety of tasks include picking up items dropped on the floor to bringing in the mail or turning light switches on and off. These skills are taught to a Labrador by building on his natural intelligence, retrieving instincts, gentle nature, and his desire to please. After mastering a battery of advanced obedience techniques, each dog is placed with his disabled owner and taught the specific chores he will be required to perform in the home.

With an arthritis sufferer, for example, the Aid Dog will retrieve or carry objects as commanded. With a more severely handicapped individual, such as a wheel-chair-bound stroke victim or paraplegic, a system of communicating with the dog may also have to be devised to replace vocal commands or hand signals. Aid Dogs learn to assist their owners by performing many of the physical tasks they are unable to handle, in this way widening the owners' abilities to take an active role in the world around them.

Introducing Training To The Young Labrador Retriever

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Introducing Training To The Young Labrador Retriever

You can begin some elementary retrieving exercises at eight weeks or so, and your Labrador will most likely love the game and look forward to it each day. To teach the basic mechanics of the fetch (run out, pick up the object, return the object to the master, and release), begin by placing the puppy on a 10-foot lead. Take a favorite toy or a ball large enough not to be swallowed, dangle it in front and above the dog's head to gain its attention, and toss it 5 to 6 feet in front of you. Precede your command with your dog's name. For example, say, "Jake, fetch!" As he races for the toy, follow behind him. Make sure the lead stays loose and does not snap shut and frighten or hurt him (and perhaps permanently sour him on retrieving).

If he picks up the toy, praise him encouragingly. Should he merely eye or paw the toy, make him pick it up by shaking it in front of him, repeating "Jake, fetch!" Once he has grasped the toy, walk backwards to your beginning spot. Coax him to follow you by motioning him toward you using your hands and fingers. When he arrives back, get the toy from his mouth by commanding "Out!" and gently pulling it loose. Now is the time to give him a lot of praise and affection - not during the exercise, although encouragement can be helpful.

At such a young age, the emphasis in this and all types of exercise is on fun, not on performance. Improvement in response should naturally come with familiarity. As the puppy masters the game, vary it. Keep the dog guessing. Try to remain in position and not move out toward the toy. Later, you can attach a longer lead and extend the distance of your throw, or throw the toy sideways. Any Labrador retriever worth its name will take easily and eagerly to this game.

It is recommended that you play with the puppy often and consciously make an effort to get down to its level. Standing upright, humans can be quite an imposing sight for a puppy. Sitting or lying on the floor, they are no longer towers but friendly companions. Giving a puppy some eye-to-eye attention will go a long way in cementing the human-dog bond.

Because Labrador retrievers make good swimmers as adults, some misinformed people think this gives them the liberty to dunk young puppies into any available pool of water. A Labrador is a natural swimmer, but the dog needs to learn the fundamentals before being expected to feel at ease in the water. When a puppy's first exposure to the water is being thrown or forced in, the shock may make it dislike and fear the water throughout life. Many potential field dogs have been ruined by improper or overzealous training.

The first introduction to the water can begin while a puppy is quite young (three months is a good age). A puppy should be able to master the mechanics very quickly, especially if "shown
the ropes" by some older dogs. The owner should always be nearby, should trouble arise. It often helps the dog feel at ease if the owner wades into the water with it on the first dip.

Ponds or lakes, with their easy entries, are best for training water dogs. The slick tiles and steep sides of a pool are often unmanageable for the dog, and many drownings have occurred when an exhausted dog was unable to climb out of the water. Similarly, a young puppy is not strong enough to manage a rough ocean surf, but should be encouraged to play
along the shoreline in a sheltered area of shallow water.

How To Handle Traveling With Your Labrador Retriever

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How To Handle Traveling With Your Labrador Retriever

Since your Labrador may sometimes accompany you when you travel, it is important to indoctrinate it into riding in the car while it is still a puppy. Start with short trips, such as local errands, and increase from there. The dog should always ride in the back seat and should be taught to lie down while the car is moving. Young puppies often do well to ride in their crates during any extended car trip.

For trips of more than an hour, do not feed the dog just prior to departure. Like people, many dogs experience motion sickness. Should your dog be prone to vomiting in the car, it will require medication from your veterinarian whenever you are planning a long drive. Most dogs
outgrow this as they get more accustomed to car trips. Plan on stopping at least every two hours, at which time you should walk the dog to give it some exercise and a chance to relieve itself. Remember that the dog will be in an unfamiliar terrain, so always have it on leash to prevent an unexpected bolting.

While the car is moving, allow a small amount of fresh air to circulate inside by opening the windows approximately 2 inches (5 cm) from the top. This should be sufficient, as large doses-of air from fully opened windows can cause eye, ear, and throat irritation.

Caution: In the summertime, provide several small amounts of drinking water during the trip to prevent dehydration. When stopped, never leave a dog in a parked car during the heat of the day. Even with the windows slightly lowered, the internal temperature of the car can soar in just minutes and be fatal to the dog.

If you are planning an extended trip requiring overnight lodging, make reservations in advance at a hotel or motel that will allow pets. Travel guides or your local automobile club should be able to supply you with a list of places that accept animals.

Boarding Your Lab: If you are to be away and must leave your Labrador behind, the most satisfactory arrangement would be to leave the dog with a friend or relative with whom the dog is familiar. Barring this, you have several options. The breeder from whom you purchased your dog may have the facilities to house it on a temporary basis. Alternatively, you can check your local papers for "foster care" advertisements by local people who are willing to look after pets in their home for a limited amount of time. Should you consider this method, be sure to visit the site on several occasions with the dog to familiarize it with the people and location and to verify that this is a suitable environment for your pet. Commercial kennels offer boarding services for those with no other options. Most kennels are clean and tend to all your pet's basic needs, but Labradors are very people-oriented and tend to miss the companionship they are used to when placed in boarding kennels. Should this be necessary, however, check that the kennel is accredited by the American Boarding Kennel Association.

Field And Hunting Trials For Your Lab

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Field And Hunting Trials For Your Lab

Since the Labrador Retriever is primarily a sporting dog, this fact should not be lost sight of by breeders who might only be interested in raising Labradors that look like Labradors regardless of how they act.

Field Trial training is a very complicated and specialized subject. The Labrador Club requires that any member having a dog that has completed his ARC Championship may not use that title until he has passed a working test. Unfortunately the Club has in the past made it very difficult for the average person to manage the testing, which in itself is very easy, and most Labradors could pass it with practically no training.

The dog does not need to be steady but can be held on a line until sent by the judge. He must retrieve to hand a pheasant and enter the water twice to retrieve dead or shackled ducks. He must not be gun-shy, which is perhaps the hardest thing for an amateur to teach his dog. Any dog first exposed to gunfire while near the gun may become forever gun-shy. A dog's hearing is very much more acute than that of a human being, and introduction to any loud sharp sound such as a gunshot should be done with extreme caution.

Introduction to sounds of percussion should begin when a puppy is quite small by making noises such as banging on a metal feed dish or even starting with hand clapping while the puppy is eating. Any accustoming to loud sound should be done while the puppy is concentrating on other things, such as food, or while excited at entering the water to retrieve a duck. The gun should be kept a long distance away at first and gradually moved closer until the dog seems to pay no attention to it except to connect the sound with something interesting. It would be wise to have an experienced person help in introducing your dog to gunshots because it is not as simple as many would believe and can cause irreversible gun-shyness if done in the wrong way.

Most show-type Labradors will make excellent hunting dogs if handled by a person who understands training. A Labrador owner who sends his dog to a professional for training as a hunter and never handles him until the season opens, blames poor training on his lack of success. But the fact is that it is his own fault in not learning the proper signals in the control of his dog. The dog is willing and understands the problem but is unable to understand what his owner is trying to tell him and the result is utter confusion, and loss of temper on the part of the owner.

Finding A Labrador Retriever

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Finding A Labrador Retriever

Once you have decided that a Labrador Retriever is the right dog for you and your family, you are now ready to begin the search for a puppy that will hopefully be an ideal pet for the entire household, one that will be fun training to retrieve and can be used as such during the hunting season.

Whether it would be a male or a female is something that you need to decide before buying a Labrador Retriever. For those who want to acquire a hunting dog, a male is preferable because a female may come in heat just when she is needed as a retriever. However, in other circumstances, there is really not much difference; each sex has advantages and disadvantages. Either will wander if enticed away by neighboring dogs, or stay at home to be
with their family.

For the prospective dog owner, a good way to find the right Lab is to go to dog shows. There are dog magazines that you can buy that list the shows with dates and where they are going to be held. At a dog show, talk with as many people as possible, especially with those who will put you in touch with active breeders. Unfortunately, many successful breeders are
"kennel blind," believing so strongly in their own type of Labrador that they do not see the faults in their stock. However, breeders are flattered when a serious beginner asks their advice; and the more intelligent the questions asked, the more interest there is in helping the new breeder to get started. The successful breeder is the one with many satisfied customers, and it is important for the beginner to talk with owners of Labradors from some of these kennels before visiting the place.

This is a big country, and you may end up buying a high-priced puppy from a person you have never seen, so you have to make sure that you will get what you are paying for. This involves talking with a great many Labrador owners and breeders and eventually deciding
upon a breeder whose advice you believe to be trustworthy. No one is infallible; miracles rarely happen and we never get perfection, but with proper research and planning, mistakes can be minimized when buying a puppy which you hope will be a superior, all-purpose pet.

At first, the beginner can rarely see the difference between one puppy or dog within a breed and another, especially if they are all the same color. It takes constant training of the eye to distinguish various differences between the Labradors one has the opportunity to see. Also, there is more involved than visual appearance in selecting the ideal puppy. A beginner will be more capable in choosing the right breeder than the right puppy and should rely upon the breeder to make the selection.

Feeding Your Labrador Retriever

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Feeding Your Labrador Retriever

While deciding what to feed your Labrador retriever certainly is the top priority, how, when, and where are also vital aspects. Once you resolve all these issues, you should set the pattern for a healthful lifestyle for your dog.

It is important to set a specific location for feeding your Lab. In many households you will find him being fed right in the middle of the kitchen floor, probably at a time when the kitchen is in full use. People, thinking in their human way, naturally feel that the dog appreciates being part of the family scene and enjoys sharing meals with the family. But dogs are animals with pack instincts, not humans. They should be allowed to eat their meal in peace, without having to entertain thoughts of whether anyone is going to try to take their food away from them. Many dogs gulp down their food not as a result of hunger but out of a desire to finish quickly before they are disturbed. (They often vomit this food back up and eat it a second time, which is an unappetizing process for humans to watch but quite normal for dogs.) As mild mannered as Labrador retrievers are, they do not appreciate interruptions and will eat better if fed each day in a private area, out of the flow of traffic.

When to feed your Labrador is generally a matter of choice and the age of the dog. Young puppies require four and sometimes even five small meals a day. From about four to eight months, the growing puppy will need three meals a day: morning, noon, and night. Reduce the feeding schedule to two meals a day at about nine months of age, and finally to the adult diet of one large meal a day at 11 or 12 months of age. Most owners feed an adult dog his main meal in the late afternoon or early evening, and often augment this with a few biscuits or some kibble in the morning. Others just divide the rations into two smaller feedings. Use whatever suits you and your dog best.

How you feed your Labrador refers not only to the method but also to how much. There is no set amount that will apply to every Labrador retriever, and product-label directions should only be used as guides. Quite naturally, the size, age, temperament (active or lazy), and amount of daily exercise will dictate the number of calories needed. The primary indicator of how well a dog is being fed is its overall trim, A Labrador retriever should be firm, not plump. It is easy for today's dogs to get out of condition by not exercising enough and by being fed too much by well-meaning owners (we humans often equate food with love). Labradors will overeat if encouraged, so don't let Jake nibble to his liking from a perpetually full bowl. At the other extreme, if the ribs and hipbones can be easily felt upon running your hand down the dog's side, your pet may require additional calories. Telltale signs of undernourishment are a lack of coat sheen and an overall malaise. Labradors are normally peppy, so a physical slowdown should be carefully monitored.

Feeding Your Labrador Retriever

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Feeding Your Labrador Retriever: Part 2

Many dog owners feed their pet semi-moist foods because they are easier to prepare than canned food and usually more delectable than regular dry food. Semi-moist foods are usually packaged in easy-open pouches or as "hamburger patties." The semi-moist foods contain much less water than canned foods, but they are expensive and loaded with sugar, preservatives, and additives. These materials can sometimes produce allergic reactions that commonly result in skin biting or scratching by the sensitive dog. Though there are some semi-moist foods that are more nutritious than others, it is best to limit their intake to no more than ผ of the dog's diet, with the remaining พ being a quality dry food.

The dry-food category spans a large spectrum of quality, mostly commercial and professional. Most of the popular brands that are seen in supermarkets fall into the first category. The main problem with these is the amount the dog needs to consume daily in order to attain proper nutrition. Often, it is just too much, and leads to excessive elimination.

Check the recommended feeding amounts on the bag and apply it to your dog's weight. If the suggested amount turns out to be more than your dog can easily eat in one meal, choose another brand. A second drawback of this type of dry food is that the mixture of ingredients often varies from batch to batch, due to fluctuations in which crop such as soy, wheat, oats, etc. is available at what time. Therefore, the nutritional value may differ somewhat from bag to bag.

The "professional" meat-meal blends offer some improvement. These are the high-quality dry foods that are sold primarily in pet shops, specialty stores, and online catalogs. They offer a nutritious, balanced diet in an easily digestible form. The makers retain a standard blending procedure from batch to batch to insure a uniform product. The suggested feeding amounts are adequate to fill a dog up without overfeeding him. Although such products may cost a little more than the regular dry food, in the long run they are no more expensive than brands that require more to be eaten. A quality meat-meal-based dry food has also been shown to aid in the housebreaking process because this type of mixture usually contains bran or fiber in amounts that help to produce firmer stools.

Description Of A Labrador Retriever

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Description Of A Labrador Retriever: Part 3

All Labrador Retrievers are either a solid black, a solid yellow, or a solid chocolate. A white spot on the chest is permissible. All the colors should have the correct double coat. The thick undercoat lies under the topcoat. The topcoat should be a bit rough to the touch and does not have to lie flat. In fact, if the coat is too slick, the dog probably does not have a good undercoat and would not be useful as a retriever in cold waters.

The undercoat acts as insulation and, working in conjunction with the coat's natural oil, helps to repel water. The Labrador does not feel the cold the way a single-coated dog does. Another aspect of this coat is the special look that it gives the breed.

All four legs should have good, thick bone, the front legs coming straight down from the shoulders. The rear legs should be well bent at the knee or stifle. The hind quarters should be thick with well-muscled thighs. The hocks should not be too long and should also be well bent and well let down (not one continuous line from buttocks to the foot). Picture about a six-inch section from the foot to the hock joint and then a little jog, toward the front, and on up to the stifle. The view from behind the dog should not be narrow but rather hefty.

The tail should be set right off the back. In other words, you should see one straight line from the withers to the tip of the tail. If the tail is set too low or if the tail is set too high, the picture will be spoiled. As a Labrador moves, the tail usually wags happily from side to side. It should never be carried curled up over the back like a hound's tail. A tail that is carried too low or between the legs will give the appearance of timidity.

Timidity is a word that is not in the Labrador dictionary. This very important tail, which should not be too long (not below the hock), acts like a rudder when the dog is swimming. It is sometimes called an otter tail because it is thick at the base and tapers down to a tip, like the tail of an otter. The tail should be well covered with a very distinctive short, dense coat. The underside of the tail should never have any long feathery hair on it.

Description Of A Labrador Retriever

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Description Of A Labrador Retriever: Part 2

It is important for the Labrador Retriever to be well balanced. He should not be as tall and thin as a pointer, and he should not be as short and fat as a potbellied pig. No one feature should be so prominent as to detract from the total picture. If you look at a Labrador and notice only his huge head, the dog is probably unbalanced. If you look at a Labrador and see only his big feet or a long scraggly tail, you are probably not looking at a good specimen of the breed.

The ears should be set off the side of the skull, not too high and not too low. They should be of medium size, hanging so that the bottom tips are about two inches below the eyes. The ears should not be so big or so small that they draw attention to themselves. And they should never be long or folded as they are on many hounds.

The Labrador's eyes are where we see that irresistible, sweet, kind and alert expression. Some are shaped like a rounded diamond. Although some round eyes can be attractive, they should not resemble the round eyes of a Cocker Spaniel, nor should they be too almond-shaped. A good color would be a warm brown-eye on all three colors (black, yellow or chocolate), maybe a bit darker on a yellow Lab. If the eyes are too light, the dog's expression will be ruined. There should never be a harsh or mean look about a Labrador. When you look into a Lab's eyes, you should feel instant friendliness. Usually, the moment your eyes meet, the Lab's powerful tail starts wagging automatically.

The desirable Labrador head should sit on a strong neck of medium length. If the neck is too short, the dog looks as if his head is sitting on his shoulders; if the neck is too long, the dog appears elegant, like a setter, which is not correct. There is nothing elegant about this dog. He is agile, strong, and sturdy. As you continue down the neck, past the withers, the top line (the back) should be rather level, never sway-back or sloping to the degree that a Setter's back does from the neck to the rump. The chest should be deep with well-sprung ribs like a barrel. The shoulders should be long and sloping. The correct look requires long bones that form a ninety-degree angle as you look at the dog from the side, from the withers, to the sternum, to the elbow. The front legs are well underneath the dog, allowing a prominent breastbone to show and creating the picture of a powerful chest.

Description Of A Labrador Retriever

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Description Of A Labrador Retriever: Part 1

The Labrador Retriever standard was changed recently. The new standard describes the Labrador as a medium-sized dog, giving the appearance of a dog that is strong, muscular and active. The head, which includes a very specific kind and friendly expression, the coat and the tail are the breed's three outstanding characteristics. However, the head, coat, tail and temperament, all worn on the correct body or frame, are what give you the complete Labrador. Though temperament is not a physical trait, it is the essence of this breed. The Labrador's kindly temperament is visible in his warm eyes as well as in his body language. If any of these things is missing, you do not have a Labrador.

The head of a Labrador Retriever is one of the breed's most distinguishing characteristics. It should not remind you of any other breed. If it reminds you of a Coonhound, a Great Dane or some kind of Terrier, then it is not a correct Labrador head. The Lab has a fairly broad back skull and a nice stop. The stop connects the skull to the muzzle, and the eyes are set into the stop. The skull and muzzle run on practically parallel planes. The head should not have big, heavy, apple cheeks or flews that are too pendulous. The head should have a neat, clean appearance unlike the sloppy or drooling look that is appropriate for a Saint Bernard. The muzzle should be strong and never snipey looking. The nose should be wide with well-developed nostrils, for that keen sense of smell.

A Labrador should have what is called a "scissors bite," where the top front teeth come down right over (actually touching) the bottom front teeth, just as the blades of a pair of scissors cross each other to cut something. A level bite, where the top and bottom meet at exactly the same place, is acceptable but not desirable. Labradors should have full dentition and should not be overshot or undershot, where there is a gap of one-eighth to one-quarter inch or more between the top and bottom jaw.

Either of these conditions or a wry mouth (crooked jaw) would make it harder for the dog to carry game. However, if your dog is a family pet, it probably will not matter if his bite is not perfect. He will probably never miss a meal.

Showing Your Lab: The AKC Standard “Look” For The Labrador Retriever

Showing Your Lab: The AKC Standard “Look” For The Labrador Retriever

The general appearance of the Labrador should be that of a strongly built and a very active dog. He should be fairly wide over the loins and strong and muscular in the hindquarters. The coat should be close, short, dense and free from feather.

The skull should be wide, giving brain room; there should be a slight stop, the brow should be slightly pronounced so that the skull is not absolutely in a straight line with the nose. The head should be clean-cut and free from fleshy cheeks. The jaws should be long and powerful; the nose should be wide and the nostrils are well developed. Teeth should be strong and regular.

The ears should hang moderately close to the head, rather far back, should be set somewhat low and not be large and heavy. The eyes should be of a medium size, expressing great intelligence and good temper, and can be brown, yellow or black, but brown or black is preferred.

The neck should be medium length, powerful and not throaty. The shoulders should be long and sloping. The chest must be of good width and depth, the ribs are well sprung and the loins wide and strong, stifles are well turned, and the hindquarters are well developed and of great power.

The legs must be straight from the shoulder to ground, and the feet compact with toes well arched, and pads well developed; the hocks should be well bent, and the dog must neither be cow hocked nor be too wide behind; he must stand and move true all round on legs and feet. Legs should be of medium length, showing good bone and muscle, but not so short as to be out of balance with rest of body.

The tail is a distinctive feature of the breed; it should be very thick towards the base, gradually tapering towards the tip, of medium length, should be free from any feathering, and should be clothed thickly all round with the Labrador's short, thick, dense coat, thus giving the peculiar "rounded" appearance which has been described as the "otter" tail. The tail may be carried gaily but should not curl over the back.

The coat is another very distinctive feature; it should be short, very dense and without wave, and should give a fairly hard feeling to the hand.

Movement should be free and effortless. The forelegs should be strong and true, and correctly placed. Watching a dog move towards one, there should be no signs of elbows being out in front, but neatly held to the body with legs not too close together, and moving straight forward without pacing or weaving. When viewing the dog from the rear, you should get the impression that the hind legs, which should be well muscled and not cow hocked, move as nearly parallel as possible, with hocks doing their full share of work and flexing well, thus giving the appearance of power and strength.

Feeding Your Labrador Retriever

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Feeding Your Labrador Retriever: Part 1

Selecting the right food for your Labrador Retriever should not be a random choice, as no other decision will have a greater impact on the overall well-being of your dog. What the dog eats affects his nutrition, and nutrition directly relates to overall health and longevity. A dog's diet should be high in protein, with an ample supply of carbohydrates, fat, vitamins, and minerals. These requirements are easily met by selecting nutritionally complete products.

Most single-pet households purchase their dog's food from the supermarket. Often, pet owners are swayed into trying certain brands by price, packaging, and advertising. But the most popular brands may not be the best buys for your dog.

There are three main types of dog food: canned, semi-moist, and dry; with the occasional table scraps. Each of these used as the sole diet presents problems. A diet consisting exclusively of canned and semi-moist foods can wreak havoc with a dog's digestive system, teeth, and gums.

Some dry foods must be taken in massive amounts to obtain all of the nutrients that are essential. And table scraps can throw a well-balanced diet right out of order. However, in spite of these pitfalls, there is no reason to despair. With a little research such as reading the labels and comparing and perhaps some trial and error, you should be able to work out the proper balanced diet for your Lab.

Canned dog food should never be served as the only food. First of all, it is very high in water content (approximately 75%) and you end up paying hefty prices for little real substance. The meat used in canned food is certainly not from choice cuts, either, so do not let evasive television commercials fool you into thinking canned food is optimal. In addition, the additives that are commonly used in canned foods, such as coloring and preservatives, are basically non digestible by the dog and can have a diuretic effect. Add this to the high water content and you will understand why a dog eating primarily canned food will have an increased need for urination and potential housebreaking problems.

However, there are some canned foods that are better than others, notably the ones designed for the different stages of a dog's life. But even these should make up no more than ผ of the dog's daily intake and should be used in conjunction with a quality meat/meal-based dry food.

Common Hereditary Faults In A Labrador Retriever

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Common Hereditary Faults In A Labrador Retriever

A responsible breeder should realize that certain matters of health are his responsibility. Such a breeder should do everything possible through his breeding to keep certain known inherited serious faults from becoming widespread in Labrador Retrievers. He should also try his best to understand what to do about inherited faults detrimental to the breed that have already become widespread within the breed.

There seems to be two extremes among persons interested in breeding dogs. There are those who are over-cautious and others who will breed anything to anything and trust to luck. The more intelligent approach is to investigate and leave the final decision to the weighing of various aspects of each particular problem. Elimination from the breeding program of every dog falling the slightest bit below perfection is not the intelligent approach.

Various breeds of dogs have their own particular inherited problems, some of which are a matter of physical beauty, such as eye-color. Light eyes in Labradors are frowned upon, but since there is no basis in fact that the color of eyes in a dog has anything to do with his vision, color becomes an aesthetic choice. Dark eyes are dominant in inheritance in most breeds; if a breeder prefers not to have that color, he should take care never to breed to a yellow-eyed dog or he will develop "carriers" for light eyes in his strain, if not light eyes themselves. This fault of appearance is not widespread in the Labrador breed and is a far lesser fault than progressive retinal atrophy (PRA).

Progressive retinal atrophy leads to complete blindness and is widespread in many breeds, including Labradors in England. It is not a serious problem at the present time in this country but any signs of it becoming on the increase should be watched for by breeders. The danger of it becoming widespread is the fact that blindness develops slowly and a Labrador cannot be declared free of affliction until he is four years of age. This age factor varies with different breeds. Any case of blindness should be diagnosed by a qualified doctor or veterinarian.

Kennel owners should obtain the services of an expert in eye diseases and have all dogs checked. Temporary certificates are issued for those dogs proved clear under four years of age and permanent certificates after that age. The British Kennel Club lists all dogs holding such types of certificates in their monthly official magazine. They also do this for their hip dysplasia program. Effort is being made to bring progressive retinal atrophy under control, but it will be difficult since many dogs will be bred from under four years of age without knowledge of whether or not they are passing on the genes of inheritance for this blindness.

Coming To America: A History Recording Of The Labrador Retriever

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Coming To America: A History Recording Of The Labrador Retriever

In the 1920's the Labrador Retriever began gaining popularity with American sportsmen. Although a few "English retrievers," as Labradors were called in 19th century America, had made their way to our shores, few could be located in American shooting kennels prior to the 1920s, as setters and pointers were the dogs of choice in those days. In 1917, the first Labrador Retriever registered by the American Kennel Club was imported from Scotland. Her
name was Brocklehirst Floss.

The style of shooting in United States at that time was different from that practiced abroad. A group of wealthy enthusiasts on the East coast with ties to Britain began developing the Labrador Retriever among themselves in order to carry on the style of pass shooting to which they were most accustomed and partial. To aid in this, they not only imported fine dogs but also lured noted Scottish trainers to America.

In 1931 the Labrador Retriever Club of America was founded and sponsored its first field trial in December of that year. The competition was held in Chester, New York, with a total of 16 entries - all but one of which were imports. The winner was Carl of Boghurst, a yellow owned by Mrs. Marshall Field. This annual event would spur popularity in the sport to the point where today there are more than 150 trials a year held for Labrador retrievers!

It was not until May 18, 1933, that the first specialty show for bench competition was held by the Labrador Club of America. From an entry of 34, Boli of Black was chosen as best. Boli, owned by Franklin P. Lord and purchased from the British breeder, Lady Howe, was the first American bench-champion Labrador retriever.

The Arden kennels of W. A. Harriman became the driving force in the field, claiming the first American field champion in Blind of Arden and the first female American field champion in Decoy of Arden who were litter mates. Mr. Harriman's talent for breeding top-quality Labradors from his stock earned him the recognition of having developed the finest American
kennel to date. His credits include four dual champions, five field champions, eight bench champions, and scores of champions that descend from this line. The shining star among the Arden Labradors was Shed of Arden, owned by Paul Bakewell. He embodied all that a Labrador should: talent in the field, beauty and intelligence, and the ability to produce quality offspring.

A mating of Mr. Harriman's Decoy with Dr. Milbank's Ch. Kaffles of Earlsmoor produced a litter from which Earlsmoor Moor of Arden emerged. Moor went on to win the Labrador Club of America Annual Specialty in 1938, 1939, 1940, 1941, and 1943. Winning a national specialty five times is an astounding accomplishment that may never be repeated again by any dog of any breed.

Caring For Your Labrador's Face & Ears

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Caring For Your Labrador's Face & Ears

After a day of hunting or a run in overgrown terrain, a Labrador retriever's eyes and ears should be inspected for signs of embedded objects or scratches. The ear can be easily inspected with the aid of a small flashlight to help you see the upper interior. It is quite easy for burrs to become entangled in or around the ear canal, or for tiny seeds to work their way under the eyelids and irritate the eye. The dog will react to such irritants by pawing at the spot, often causing more damage by scraping the surface raw and inviting infection. If the dog is continuously rubbing these areas and no cut or embedded object is visible, there may be an abrasion that will require a salve to remove the sting and aid in healing.

Ear troubles are also indicated when a dog constantly shakes its head, rubs its head against the ground, produces an excessive amount of visible ear wax, or if there is a foul odor from the ear's interior. If the dog reacts violently to an inspection of the ear or if there is redness or swelling, it probably is suffering from an inflammation that must be treated topically by your veterinarian (antibiotics are sometimes required also). Such inflammations can be the result of a variety of causes, such as parasitic mites or bacterial infections, so an accurate diagnosis is imperative.

You can help to alleviate the normal buildup of wax and dirt in the ear by routinely swabbing the easily accessible areas of the ear with a cotton ball wet with a little warm water. Ointments made specifically for cleaning the outer ear can be purchased from pet shops, grooming parlors, or your veterinarian if cleanliness is a continual problem. Avoid oily compounds, as they may leave a sticky residue that will retain dirt. Do not probe into the ear canal during cleaning, as this can be very damaging and extremely painful for the dog. Clean only the exposed area. If you suspect that the ear is becoming clogged, bring the dog to the veterinarian for a more thorough cleaning. You should ask for instructions on how to perform this procedure at home if the problem is chronic.

To remove small amounts of discharge that may collect around the corners of the eye, carefully dab it away with a damp, clean, lint-free cloth. If the dog continues to blink excessively or if the eye is red, consult your veterinarian. Minor irritations can quickly become serious, so special attention must be paid to any tearing or discharge from these sensitive areas.

Caring For Your Labrador's Coat

Caring for the coat of a Labrador retriever is not much of a problem. The short, dense hair is easily groomed with a daily application of a hound glove or bristle brush. The coat is basically dirt and water repellent, and seldom becomes offensive. There is little shedding, even though the Labrador loses its undercoat once or twice yearly. Coat trimming is unnecessary (although sometimes resorted to by show competitors who feel tidying is necessary to highlight this or downplay that aspect of conformation). Bathing should not be a routine matter, but should only be undertaken when absolutely necessary (such as that unexpected meeting with a local skunk, a roll in the mud, or the presence of an accumulated "doggy odor"from the oils in the coat). Washing a Labrador too frequently eliminates too much of the natural oils that give the outer coat its desired harshness. Soap residue can also dry out the skin and be irritating to the dog.
Yellows may need to be bathed a little more frequently than blacks or chocolates, as their coat may pick up some discoloration from grass and dirt. This can often be taken care of by spot washing only the main contact points - the lower legs and thighs.
When bathing is needed, be sure to use a very mild soap designed especially for the dog's coat - not commercial products for humans, which are much too drying for a dog. When bathing the dog, work the water down through the dense outer coat to the skin. Afterward, be very careful to dry the dog thoroughly. It may sound silly to worry about a Labrador retriever getting a chill from a bath, when a hunting Labrador often spends many hours diving in and out of icy waters without so much as a shiver. However, the bathing process temporarily removes some of the dog's natural water-repellent oils and gets the dog wet at the skin. At this point, even a water dog is vulnerable to temperature extremes, so be cautious.
A word of caution: Should you notice a change in coat appearance, such as a dulling of the normal sheen, inspect the skin closely for signs of parasite infestation or other skin disorders. If the dog begins to scratch incessantly or chew its coat and skin, there is an irritation present that must be diagnosed by a competent veterinarian. Recent nutritional studies have shown that many such skin problems can be 'traced to allergic reactions to food additives or other substances. A change in the natural oils of the coat' may point to metabolic problems involving the liver, kidneys, or the digestive tract. The loss of hair may be tied to hormonal imbalances, or could be due to infectious mange. The point is that the coat is often an indicator of general health and should not be overlooked just because the Labrador is lucky enough not to need much attention paid to it.

Beloved Companion and Therapy Dogs

Beloved Companion and Therapy Dogs

By far the most common use of today's Labrador is as a home companion, a role at which he excels. Surprisingly, the Labrador Retriever was rarely kept strictly as a house pet until several decades after the breed's introduction to the united States. The initial fanciers of the breed became acquainted with him through knowledge of the shooting game. When the breed
was well established as a sporting companion, his docile, brainy nature won his way out of the kennel and into the home.

The Labrador Retriever's ability to quickly adapt and respond to instruction made the transition quite easy. Today, puppies raised in the home actually become so entwined in the lives of their owners that they often suffer when relegated to the kennel life. (If you are planning to keep a kennel of Labradors, select puppies that are properly socialized but still familiar with kennel life.)

As a companion, the Labrador Retriever is good-natured and gentle enough to accept the roughhousing of youngsters without returning it. If properly socialized while young, a Labrador will share his "home with another dog, providing there is enough affection for all. It is more common for a Labrador to misbehave out of jealousy than out of dislike for another animal.

Labrador Retrievers are long on self-control and loyalty, but they do not make the most avid watchdogs. As a rule, they are not overly suspicious of strangers or highly protective of loved ones, and when natural instincts are not stimulated they can be inattentive to such a task. Always keen for a scent or sound, a Labrador Retriever would certainly give voice at the approach of an intruder, but he might be won over by a friendly gesture or a luscious piece of sirloin. If left on duty, a Labrador Retriever may wander off in search of a scent that has caught his attention. In short, he is a people-dog. If you really need a watchdog, get your Labrador a German Shepherd friend!

The value of companionship with this breed should not be underestimated. In recent years, obedience-trained Labradors as well as other breeds are being used as Therapy Dogs to enrich the lives of nursing home residents and even emotionally disturbed children. The process is simple: a group of experienced dog handlers, such as those trained by Therapy Dogs International, bring their dogs to visit, perhaps put on an obedience performance for the audience, and then let animals and humans mingle, if conditions permit. The dogs are all obedience trained and have proven themselves to be extremely gentle and outgoing. Their job is to make people feel wanted, and it works wonders for alleviating the loneliness and depression that often burden such lives. Labradors love people and the few hours Therapy Dogs share with others enrich both dog and man.

The Labrador Retriever: An Intelligent Working Dog

The Labrador Retriever: An Intelligent Working Dog

As the breed name clearly points out, Labrador Retrievers were bred originally to assist in the hunt by retrieving downed game. However, as years passed, their roles did not change but rather expanded to include numerous tasks and services.

No service rendered by a dog can surpass the role of Guide Dog. Through the work of these highly skilled animals, a blind individual is able to move in the mainstream of life, guided by the "eyes at the end of the lead." Such a human-dog bond reaffirms the valued place canines have assumed in our modern world. A Guide Dog and his owner share a special relationship, a dog that lives to serve and an owner who is able to live life to his fullest aided by the service of a life-long companion and friend.

The Guide Dog program originated in Switzerland in the 1920s under the leadership of Mrs. Dorothy Eustis. The original Guide Dogs were strictly German Shepherd females, bred by
Mrs. Eustis at her Fonunate Field Kennels. Over the years, Labradors as well as Golden Retrievers were also recruited into the program. In Great Britain, approximately 70% of the Guide Dogs are Labrador Retrievers, and Australia uses only Labradors for this task.

In the United States, The Seeing Eye was the driving force of the Guide Dog movement. This organization started in 1929 by Mrs. Eustis and is currently headquartered in Morristown,
New Jersey. It has maintained its own breeding kennel since 1941, producing 327 puppies in 1986, 117 of which were Labradors. Of a breeding stock of 40 adults, there are 15 female Labradors and four male Labrador dogs. Only the very finest dogs are selected for this special breeding kennel. They must have successfully completed the rigorous training program designed by The Seeing Eye and exhibited stellar qualities in temperament and conformation. Labradors are commended as easy breeders producing large litters.

The Labrador Retriever excels as a Guide Dog primarily because of his size, working ability, well-rounded temperament, and ability to get along so well with people. The Labrador also
has a small streak of stubbornness that the people at The Seeing Eye find useful. While this makes the Labrador slightly tougher to train, this quality sets the breed apart from most in that
a Labrador can take charge and refuse a command when confronted with an emergency situation—such as when a blind owner commands the dog to move forward and a hazard apparent only to the dog lies in the way.

Your Friendly Lab

Your Friendly Lab

If you are looking for a guard dog, the Labrador is not the breed for you. They do not have the same protective instinct as a Rottweiler. But a Lab will bark if someone is outside where he cannot see or if he hears a strange noise. He will bark when a car pulls up the driveway, but once the people enter the house they are greeted and welcomed like family members. This friendly temperament is the most wonderful aspect of the breed and is one of the reasons they are so popular as family dogs.

Good breeding is the key. Even though your Lab may accidentally knock a child with his incredibly strong, happy tail, you will not have to worry about him attacking or biting in a protective manner. It is not part of his makeup.

Labradors are active, smart, fast learners, and eager to please. They can be stubborn but can be easily persuaded to see things your way with encouragement and praise. They will work for food rewards but just as eagerly or more for your praise. They love to have something to carry around, and playing fetch is usually a favorite game. Their noses are very keen. Their eyesight and hearing are also highly developed, but their noses seem to be their guiding force.

What Color Is Your Lab?

What Color Is Your Lab?

The coat color for the Labrador Retriever are either black, yellow, or chocolate.

Blacks: All black, with a small white spot on the chest is permissible. Eyes should be of medium size, expressing intelligence and good temper, preferably brown, although black or yellow is also permissible.

Yellows: Yellows may vary in color from fox-red to light cream with variations in the shading of the coat on ears, the underparts of the dog, or beneath the tail. A small white spot on the chest is permissible. Eye coloring and expression should be the same as that of the blacks, with black or dark brown eye rims. The nose should also be black or dark brown, although "fading" to pink in winter weather is not serious. A pink nose with no pigmentation is penalized.

Chocolates: Shades ranging from light sedge to chocolate. A small white spot on the chest is permissible. Eyes are light brown to clear yellow. Nose and eye-rim pigmentation is dark brown or liver colored. "Fading" to pink in winter weather is not serious. A pink nose with no pigmentation is penalized.

The Origin Of The Lab

The Origin Of The Lab

There are many theories as to the origin of the breed known today as the Labrador Retriever. One point on which all historians seem to agree is that the Labrador originally came from Newfoundland. They were known by several names like the St. John's Water Dog, the Little Newfoundlander and the Black Water Dog, before officially being dubbed the Labrador Retriever.

Some believe that the Labrador was developed by the fishermen off the coast of Newfoundland and that he was the result of an attempt to scale down the Newfoundland dog. In other words, they wanted to produce a somewhat smaller dog because the Newfoundlands were a bit cumbersome.

The dog had to be a good retriever. He also had to have good bone and strong limbs to pull heavy loads. He needed a dense coat thick enough to withstand the cold water, but one that would not ball up with ice. He had to be eager to please, able to swim great distances and happy to live on a diet of fish and whatever else could be scrounged up. The Labrador became that dog.

The Natural Instinct Of A Labrador

The Natural Instinct Of A Labrador

The Labrador Retriever was developed by sportsmen to work in the field and retrieve game. Luckily the breed evolved quite naturally, with improvements being made by educated selection from within the breed itself, rather than the "quick fix" of an out-cross to a breed with desirable qualities. This has yielded an overall steadiness to the inheritance patterns of the Labrador's temperament and structure (conformation).

This steadiness enhances the quality of the average specimen, which means that with rare exception, today's typical Labrador Retriever will be able to perform the task he was originally bred for, whether ever asked to do this or not.

The overall quality of the average breed is the best indicator of the condition of a breed. A quality Labrador should be endowed with an instinct to retrieve and a conformation that allows the dog to fulfill his working potential effortlessly. Such work requires a strong dog with staying power.

The Labrador Retriever must be able to work long and hard, running in overgrown terrain, swimming in turbulent waters, and carrying a downed bird for long distances. The compact, well-balanced body of the Labrador enables him to fulfill his purpose by design.